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What’s next for Mendy as he faces a retrial?

Manchester City fullback Benjamin Mendy has been found not guilty on six counts of rape and one count of sexual assault against four young women.

His friend, Louis Saha Matturie, was also found not guilty of three counts of rape against three teenage girls.

Jurors at Chester Crown Court could not reach verdicts on six counts of rape and one of sexual assault, with a retrial to take place for a further count of rape in September.

Mendy, now 28, and Matturie, now 41, were accused of raping women at Mendy’s home in Cheshire, and at a flat in Manchester, in 2021. Both men pleaded not guilty to all charges.

Mendy was first arrested in November 2020, and suspended by Manchester City in August 2021 after being charged with rape.

The court heard that Mendy’s life in football was ‘over’, as he ‘would never escape’ the accusations.

Writing for BBC News, north of England correspondent Nick Garnett said that Mendy would ‘struggle to shake the image portrayed of him in court – a sex-mad, out-of-control, multi-millionaire.’

Mendy found not guilty on six counts of rape. Video credit: Evening Standard

Football culture needs to reform

Due process is a fundamental aspect of law. The presumption of innocence until proven guilty is a legal principle that has been upheld for decades in Western society.

Article 6 of the Human Rights Act 1988 provides UK citizens with the right to a fair trial. In addition to this, the fundamental right to be presumed innocent until proven guilty is an International Human Right under Article 11 of the UN’s Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

This does require an element of faith in the legal justice system. We, as citizens, are expected to have confidence in our system and trust that justice is served to the full extent of the law.

With this being said, there is an uncomfortable truth that cannot be ignored regarding football culture, both in the UK and abroad.

it seems as if footballers are, on the whole, untouchable. Several footballers have been accused by women of rape and sexual assault, yet rarely are any of them found guilty.

Mendy is not the first footballer to be accused of sexual misconduct and not face any legal consequences.

PSG and Brazil forward Neymar was accused of sexually assaulting a woman in 2019. The resulting lawsuit was put on hold due to ‘lack of proof’.

In 2017 German media outlet Der Spiegel published a rape allegation by a woman named Kathryn Mayorga (and a subsequent out-of-court settlement) against former Real Madrid striker Cristiano Ronaldo.

Arsenal and Ghana midfielder Thomas Partey was publicly accused of rape by a Twitter user. Although unnamed, several newspapers reported that ‘a Premier League footballer is no longer under investigation for rape’.

Many would argue that due process took its course in their respective court cases, but one would be forgiven for smelling a rat. They can’t ALL be innocent, surely?

What are the odds?

Power corrupts

It is possible that all three of the aforementioned footballers were accused falsely by their alleged victims.

However, due to movements such as #metoo there has been a shift in society’s social and political climate, where people in positions of power and influence – particularly men – are held to account for their actions against women.

Sexual crimes are not the only things that footballers have been convicted of and seemingly got off ‘scot-free’.

In 2011, Chelsea fullback Marcos Alonso was the driver in an accident that killed a young woman, having been driving at over twice the speed limit and – crucially – with a blood alcohol content level of 0.93 mg/mL. This resulted in a €61,000 fine and a driving ban.

Former Barcelona forward Lionel Messi had a tax fraud charge – which usually carries a prison sentence – changed to a fine of €252,000.

With all these cases, it does paint a picture of footballers being in a sort of untouchable class of people. Crimes that are committed by them have simply been brushed aside

A regular, everyday person who crashed their car whilst under the influence of alcohol and killed a person would rightfully be charged with death by dangerous driving and/or manslaughter.

A mere accusation of rape/sexual assault against a person would be enough to irreparably damage the lives and reputation of a person, yet Partey is still playing for Arsenal and Ronaldo has now become the highest-paid player in the world.

Many see these things as a demonstration of a corrupt element of football culture and influence. It seems footballers can get away with murder – figuratively and literally – if they’re high-profile enough.

What now?

Benjamin Mendy, at the time of writing, still has two other charges to deal with, although it looks likely he will escape any further punishment.

His contract at Manchester City expires in June 2023, with the club unlikely to offer an extension due to his unfitness and for PR reasons, due to the nature of the accusations.

In fact, many consider his football career to be over due to this situation, at least in England; it’s possible he could continue his career abroad or back in his native France.

Oriana Jemide: “Art is a form of therapy”

Oriana Jemide is a multidisciplinary creative working within visual arts and creative writing. Her work focuses on developing sensory architectural and landscape sets through combining multiple mediums including painting, sculpture, photography and sound.

As part of our last edition of The Detail, we sat down with her to hear about how she uses art for therapy.

How are you using art as a tool for change?

This is always a tricky question to answer. It’s like when I get asked to summarise what I do in one sentence. There are a few ways I use art as a tool for change, and I always want to talk about them. I think I will start with my work as an artist, moving through the art world with my practice which is one piece, and then the organisations I’m building to create what I consider to be more tangible change is what I will land with.

As a Black female artist of Nigerian heritage who actually grew up in Nigeria, I feel there is an expectation of the sort of artist I am to be, especially in terms of what I create. My decision to go against the grain is a tool for change. Most Nigerian artists and generally Black artists, at least the ones who have commercial success, are often portrait artists whose work has a very African identity or sociopolitical element. Industry experts have often told me there is no market for Black landscape artists and I will sell more if I paint portraits.

Although I have painted portraits in the past, I consider myself more of a landscape and textile painter. That is the work that feels more meaningful to make. I want my work to serve as a form of healing, and to me, there is nothing more healing than the beauty of our surroundings and our relationship with them. I see my choice to stick to the style of work I make as a way of changing the narrative around Black art and what is considered black art worthy of recognition and success. I see it as carving out a path for other Black artists and creatives to do original and supported work.

Art goes beyond just pictures and objects that people like to look at and touch but can create more meaning in their lives. My company, “The Medela school,” is a visual arts platform that provides educational and well-being support through art classes and workshops. At its core, the Medela School focuses on the intersection of creativity, community, education, and well-being, with visual art being its conduit. For me, there is this big piece on the tangible and measurable impact art has on people’s everyday lives as a way to change the narrative of its value.

What is The Medela School? How is this initiative intertwined with your creativity?

We describe ourselves as “the community where everyone is an artist.” We are passionate about creating greater accessibility to visual arts to promote joy and learning for every individual who encounters our work.

We see ourselves as building an ecosystem where art is considered essential, not an extracurricular activity. Through our skill-based art classes and therapeutic art workshops, we hope to transform society’s view on the value of visual art, making it something everyone can be a part of.

This project came from my desire to create tangible change through art. It is one thing to produce artwork that promotes healing but another to empower others to experience healing for themselves through art.

I’ve always known that I wanted people to share my art and feel healed, but at some point, that was not enough. I wanted to take it a step further, and creating “The Medela School” was that step.

Is art a form of therapy?

The simple answer is yes. Research reveals that art can be a great way to identify symptoms of mental health conditions as it captures the true, raw emotions of an individual.

Additionally it is sometimes used as an alternative to talking therapy for those who struggle with expressing themselves verbally. It helps individuals process their emotions in a way that becomes coherent to them and those trying to support them.

Medela School” was that step.

What does the future hold for The Medela School?

The goal of “The Medela School” is to provide access to visual art for everyone, whether it’s them using it as a form of therapy or nurturing their artistic skills. We hope anyone will see that it is something they can be a part of.

So our mission is to try out all the ways we can make that happen. For now, it looks like physical communities gathering to make art regardless of age, gender, or race. We are focused on the community element of our work at the moment.

In the future, we aim to extend our reach by moving online. We have plans for an online platform so that anyone from anywhere can access the practice of making art, build their artistic knowledge, and see its value in improving their lives, especially their well-being.

We hope to one day own an arts and well-being center that will house all the services we provide first in the UK, with hopes to open up in other countries. Finally, we hope to develop a model, an accredited curriculum that organisations can adopt to explore the need for visual art in everyday life.

How does your Initiative Inspire others to explore your art form?

In terms of encouraging people to explore visual art, we pride ourselves on meeting people where they are. Whether they are complete novices or budding artists, we hope that we can provide each individual with tools to take them to the next stage of their journey.

People often ask why not provide one service, art as a skill or art as well-being? In my five years of teaching and facilitating art, I’ve found that the two are closely interlinked, and having a holistic approach allows people to reap the full benefit.

I’ve come to observe that those who explore art for their well-being enjoy it so much that they become interested in developing it as a skill and vice versa. We don’t want to leave any stone unturned.

Just how powerful is Xi Jinping?

In 2022, Time Magazine called Xi Jinping ‘The Most Powerful Person in the World’ however how true is this claim?

Many people still assume the U.S. President is the most powerful person in the world. But times have changed. In recent years we have observed two parallel developments: the President of the United States has lost power while the President of China has gained it.

Who is Xi Jinping?

Xi Jinping is the political leader of China. Among all the positions he’s holding, he’s probably holding dozens of positions right now, but there are three that are the most important.  

First, he’s the president of China. This means that he’s the head of the state. He gets to meet with other heads of state, for example, Queen Elizabeth or the President of the United States. But in China, this is a symbolic position, which doesn’t come with a lot of power.  

Second, he’s the chairman of the Chinese Communist Party. This means that he’s the boss of the party. This is more powerful than for example, his counterpart in the U.S., which for example, is the chairman of the Republican National Committee, which doesn’t have a lot of power, but in China, if you’re the chairman of the Chinese Communist Party, you get to make decisions not only for the party but also for the whole country.  

The third thing, which is the most powerful among all, is the chairman of the Central Military Affairs Commission. This means that he’s the commander in chief in China, who is in charge of China’s military. In addition to these formal positions, he’s also a princeling, which means that he’s the son of one of the founding fathers of the People’s Republic of China. His father, Xi Zhongxun, was a colleague of Mao Zedong’s and also a high-ranking official in the 1950s, 1960s. So Xi Jinping has this formal power coming from his formal positions, but also, he has this charisma, this legacy from his father who was one of the founders.  

What about on the world stage?

In addition to his role within the CCP, Xi Jinping also has a significant influence on the international stage. China is the world’s second-largest economy and a major player in global politics and economics. As President of China, Xi Jinping has the ability to shape the direction of the country’s foreign policy and to negotiate with other world leaders on behalf of China.

Xi Jinping and Mohammed bin Salman at the Chinese president’s welcoming ceremony in the Saudi capital Riyadh on Dec. 8, 2022. BANDAR AL-JALOUD / AFP

Xi Jinping has also consolidated his power within the Chinese government through a series of measures aimed at strengthening the CCP’s control over society and the economy. These measures include the expansion of censorship and the suppression of dissent, as well as the introduction of new laws and regulations that give the CCP greater control over areas such as technology, media, and the internet.

Today, Xi has surpassed his goal of becoming the new Mao. In November 2021, the Communist Party’s Central Committee passed a resolution “resolutely upholding Comrade Xi Jinping’s core position on the Party Central Committee and in the Party as a whole.” It was only the third time that the Party’s Central Committee had passed a resolution about the Party’s own history. The document mentions Xi’s predecessors Jiang Zemin and Hu Jintao once; the great reformer Deng Xiaoping, who was responsible for the economic transformation of China and made it a rich country, six times; and Mao Zedong eighteen times. And Xi Jinping? Twenty-four times. The resolution does not put Xi on a par with Chairman Mao—he’s elevated above him.

The elusive leader

What’s very astonishing is that, although Xi Jinping has so much power, people in the West know almost nothing about him: how he was born into the family of one of the highest leaders of the People’s Republic—and then experienced a terrible crash. How he was tortured and exiled during Mao’s Cultural Revolution—and still became a staunch Mao supporter. That his wife Peng Liyuan is a highly talented singer, as famous in China as Jennifer Lopez or Beyoncé is in the U.S. The amazing fact is that his father was a friend of the Dalai Lama and the Uyghurs while Xi Jinping oppresses non-Chinese ethnic groups. He is the first among 1.4 billion people. If not among 7.7 billion.

In summary, Xi Jinping is a powerful figure both within China and on the global stage. His control over the CCP and the Chinese government, as well as his influence on international affairs, make him a key player in the world system.

05 – The Detail: Creativity, a tool of change

Guest Editor: Fleur Boya

The dictionary defines creativity as the use of imagination or original ideas to create something; inventiveness – but it’s so much more than that. Creativity is the driving force that allows ordinary people to bring something powerful to life for a greater purpose. Creativity is a tool to convey a message, a tool for change.

As an oil painter, I use portraiture to achieve a range of things – to tell stories, raise awareness, fight injustice, engage in activism and promote the rights of the oppressed. This and many other messages can be amplified through several other creative means.

Photography immortalises special moments, fashion conveys a message through style, poetry uses the power of words to tug on our heartstrings and paintings help us to reimagine the world in new ways. Creativity has no floor or ceiling, no limitations or rules, no beginning and certainly no end. It has no look or appearance – all it has is a message.

So knowing that creativity has the power to provoke our thoughts and feelings – why not use it as a tool to drive change? Why not dig deep and harness control of our imagination to achieve a greater goal? Justice, peace, education, awareness, healing.

The aim of this month’s issue is to spotlight incredible people from all parts of the creative spectrum and inspire you to harness your own creativity and use it as a much-needed weapon of change.

Here’s The Detail.

Ben Bailey Smith: Letter to my 6-year-old self

As part of our BLACK British edition The Detail which you can read now, we asked actor Ben Bailey Smith to write a letter to his younger self, reflecting on his career so far.


I know. Trust me, I know

You’re only 6 years old and it seems overwhelming, but I know you’re excited too. It’s Christmas 1983, hard to reflect back on a year when you’re so young, but what a year. You had one of your most profound experiences this summer – your first-ever visit to a cinema. Star Wars: Return of the Jedi too! Wow. Back in January, some old man shouted “Dirty little half-caste n**r!” at you in a North London park, now you’re travelling through space at hyper speed, visiting different planets, watching an epic story unfold in a distant galaxy, right before your eyes. How long ago and far, far away that scary moment in January felt as your eyebrows raised at that screen

And somehow, despite fearing that baddie in the park, you were strangely drawn to the baddie in the movie. The mysterious, faceless man in black with a little b and a deep, booming voice that sounded Black with a capital B

I know. I remember the astonishment, the bittersweet reveal of his face at the end. Bittersweet because he wasn’t brown like you under that mask. But he also wasn’t all bad. Even the worst people have a heart somewhere under all their hardened exteriors. Everybody deserved kindness, to feel joy… to be entertained, you concluded. And so your only wish from Santa that year was the Vader outfit, so you could stomp around to the Imperial March, mimicking that rich Black voice and the asthmatic wheeze, making your family and friends laugh. It felt good! Your mum had the foresight to send you to that free drama club on Kilburn High Road. That felt good too!

But I know

I know that in your teens you’ll find out that Vader’s voice really was Black – James Earl Jones, the voice of Mufasa, no less. And his mainstream side-lining will bizarrely coincide with your own self-side-lining, walking away from Performing Arts because you felt that dirty little half-caste n*****s from Kilburn just don’t make it as actors. I have no practical guidance for you because I know you’ll find yourself – it’ll be another decade from your late teens but you’ll find yourself – as we all do eventually. You’ll even join Vader’s side, for real.

However, I will say this: Nothing is ever purely black and white. Every mask we wear covers our grey areas – it’s behind the mask that we find our complications, our duality, our idiosyncrasies, and hypocrisies. And all of them, yes all – even the very worst – are beautifully human. You are beautifully human. Keep celebrating it.

LGBTQ+ criticism of Harry Kane was unfair

LGBT fan groups have slammed the FA for asking England captain Harry Kane to not wear the ‘One Love’ armband during the World Cup in Qatar due to the risk of FIFA imposing sanctions.

Kane, along with captains of several other national teams, has chosen not to wear the armband after it was revealed the ban was against FIFA’s strict dress code.

Any player who chose to defy FIFA’s ruling would be cautioned with a yellow card. Consecutive yellow cards result in an automatic ban for the next match.

The armband aimed to show support towards the LGBT community. In Qatar, homosexuality is illegal.

FA chief exec Mark Bullingham admitted the threat of a ban made the team reconsider their actions.

Welsh fans refused entry to a stadium due to rainbow-themed hats.

“We’ve been clear that we want to wear the armband it is important to us, but equally we need to work through all of the discussions right now and see where we end up”, he said to the media.

“That’s what we are working through right now, we’ve had meetings this morning FIFA and discussion are carrying on.”

“As I’ve said we are very keen to wear the armband, we want to do it, but obviously we need to consider the implications.”

“Normally in this type of situation, there is a fine. We’d be prepared to pay the fine because we think it’s important to show our support for inclusion.”

It comes after an international debate surrounding the controversy as to how Qatar acquired the right to host the World Cup in the first place, as well as Qatari culture and its treatment of migrant workers, LGBT citizens and women.

LGBT arrogance won’t end well

If there was ever an example of how arrogant and authoritarian LGBT lobbies can be, this is it.

Qatar is by no means a perfect country – no country is – but there are aspects of the criticism that seem to be rooted in an existential crisis from certain LGBT lobbies.

Qatar is a conservative Muslim country. As such, their laws will reflect Islamic culture and values.

Qatar has strict laws regarding not just homosexuality, but other forbidden sexual acts such as fornication, adultery and children being born to unmarried parents. Public displays of affection – straight or gay – is frowned upon.

Questions have been raised regarding the balance between free will and the ‘morality police’, but ultimately, it’s an Islamic country. What you see is what you get.

Dr Nayef bin Nahar, an outspoken Qatari academic, called out a US journalist who claimed he was detained outside a stadium for wearing a rainbow t-shirt.

Did the LGBT community really expect Qatar to suspend their laws (and by extension, their religion) to suit them? Did they hope their campaigns would undermine the religion and culture of a sovereign nation?

Laws don’t necessarily have to be respected, but they will be obeyed regardless. Criticising a country’s laws is fine, but bluntly telling a country what to do shows a misplaced, self-inflated sense of importance and relevance.

One could argue that the LGBT lobbies are simply not used to not getting their way, and so they have no option but to defame and slander a sovereign nation.

Not only is Qatar a sovereign nation, but crucially they possess the world’s third-largest oil reserves. It is estimated the country has enough to fuel the planet for the next two centuries.

This puts them in a very privileged position; one where they cannot be easily bullied, manipulated or dictated to by foreign powers.

Therefore, LGBT lobbies are not in a position where they can demand – not ask or request – respect or ideological conformation, as they have so often been in Western societies.

What happens now?

Qatar’s laws continue to be protested against by Western media and public figures, whilst Qatari fans have hit back at the perceived hypocrisy from the West.

After the German national team held their hands over their mouths, in a protest against FIFA, Qatar fans held up photos of German midfielder Mesut Ozil.

The former Arsenal and Germany midfielder ended his international career after he claimed he was made a scapegoat for Germany’s group stage exit in the 2018 World Cup.

Qatar fans hold up photos of Mesut Ozil, in a show of defiance to the German FA.

“I will no longer be playing for Germany at the international level whilst I have this feeling of racism and disrespect”, Ozil said at the time.

“When high-ranking DFB officials treat me as they did, disrespect my Turkish roots and selfishly turn me into political propaganda, then enough is enough.”

A pitch invader was caught by officials after wearing a t-shirt which read ‘Respect for Iranian women’ whilst holding a Pride flag.

International debate is expected to continue during and after this edition of the World Cup.

Immigration did not cause white British decline in UK major cities 

By Junior Usina

Immigration or Brexit did not cause white British decline in UK major cities as right-wing political commentators want you to believe.

The United Kingdom is one of the most multicultural countries in the world. The 2021 census data recently released by ONS sparked outrage online among right-wing political commentators who were shocked and noticeably outraged. According to newly released race and ethnicity data, there is a further decline in people identifying as White British and Christians. 

The outrage displayed by right-wing political commentators is based on a false notion. That is the idea that White people are now in the minority in the UK. In Manchester 57 per cent identify as white, while London is 54 per cent and Birmingham 49 per cent. A whopping 78 per cent of people identified as British, and black and mixed raced and British minority groups are more likely to identify as British than white in London. 

Nigel Farage is outraged by the news. Source: Twitter

So, what had caused White British decline in UK’s most diverse cities?

Surely, not an increase in immigration or Brexit as right-wing political commentators want you to believe. 

In recent years there had been calls for action to tackle the growing ethnic segregation across the UK. According to the ONS current data release on race and ethnicity, ethnic minority groups in the UK are becoming more diverse. Past studies show that White British people are moving out from some UK’s main areas where there is increasing ethnic minority groups’ diversity. White minority in London, Manchester, and Birmingham may rise from White British flight, that is White British people exiting diverse areas rather than a decline caused by immigration. 

Another lie by the right-wing political commentators is about restricted areas, the isolation of a race class, or ethnic group by enforced or voluntary residence. White British are simply fleeing and moving out of these areas by voluntary means or for other reasons, they are not been forced out by immigration. 

Meaningful contact diminished intergroup prejudice and enhanced cultural knowledge. It looks like these right-wing political commentators are not having any meaningful contact with other groups or they simply decide to ignore the UK is more diverse. More diverse ethnic groups identify as British according to the ONS 2021 data. 

White people are increasingly less present in London, Manchester, and Birmingham and these cities are the most diverse in the UK. Communities with fewer White British are at a greater rate in diverse areas. 

The British White population are exiting inner-city regions in an increasing number, and they avoid moving to diverse areas when they do move. At the same time, there are only miniature variations in ethnic diversity in the most largely British White areas, such as Barrow in Furness, Mid-Devon, Bassetlaw, and Mid Sussex. White British flight is persistent in some areas across England and Wales urban areas, particularly London boroughs’ towns and inner cities.

The UK is becoming increasingly diverse, but the levels of integration are not keeping pace. White British family units should be stimulated to stay in culturally changing areas to decrease the inclination. Social isolation challenge trust among neighbours, cultivates anxiety and promotes the prejudice which drives the politics of accusation the right-wing political commentators are parading on social media.

Ruka Hair: A successful hair brand built by 2 Black Women

2 Ex-strategy consultants @vtmoyo & @ugorjileah have built a £15M+ hair business @rukahair, less than 2 years after launching. After constantly encountering frustrating shopping experiences, from faceless brands in the unregulated hair extensions industry, they decided to build their own solution. With an innovation team with ex-Dyson experience, they developed the widest range of textured hair extensions, winning the no.1 afro hair extensions provider in the UK for 2021. They raised 7 figures in investment from prominent founders including @monzo co-founder and @cultbeauty founder and launched with a virtual experience that Forbes called the consumer experience of the future.

The word Ruka means “doing hair” in Shona, and we mean it when we say it – we want to do hair as it has never been done before. Ruka is creating the definitive hair brand for black women globally, by building an ecosystem of hair solutions which are ethical, sustainable, and truly work. Most importantly, we’re taking the time to listen and learn from Black women who have experienced centuries of a hair industry dictated and driven by people who don’t look like us or understand our needs.

A staggering multitude of Black women suffer hair loss, often driven by the use of harmful chemicals in hair extensions and hair care products, poor hair Installation techniques, and an overall lack of education. Therefore, as a brand, we are as intentional about innovation within our products as we are about sharing our learnings with our community. Whether this is with live demos, or hair and scalp consultations at our pop-ups, our village is key.

What does the Black and British experience mean to Ruka?

We are founded and led by Black women. At our core, Ruka was birthed into a legacy of power and community, laced with a history of pain and struggle. This spans both the Black and British experience, as well as the experience of many Black people across the globe. Yet Ruka stands as the manifestation of the work that all the Black women did before us to keep the spirit and joy of our hair alive.

Similarly, the Black and British experience is rooted in a history that both challenged and, against all odds, celebrated our versatility and shape-shifting magic. Our experience is one that drives that forward – challenges the bounds of what the Black and British experience has historically been and champions the freedom to create an even more diverse future. Seeing our hair worn by our cocreators, village, Dina Asher-Smith, and Tems is an indication to us that we’re doing just that!

How does the world of tech and beauty intertwine, and how is this tailored to the Black and British experience?

As of 2021, Black women spend 6x as much as their White counterparts on haircare products and services. Ruka is a solution to why this is not represented in what’s marketed to us through 6x better quality, 6x more science-led, or even 6x more convenient. We started with real hair extensions, voted no.1 in the UK, and are raising to add world-class synthetic hair to the products we offer. Tech, innovation, and research are key to truly serving Black women, the often underserved consumer. Our village includes over 500 co-creators, the majority of whom are based in the UK, whose feedback has been instrumental in creating hair solutions that are needed that work. We also boast a team in the UK that passionately works to bring the vision alive. You can see this in our award-winning Edge Slick, the ever-improving range of hair textures we offer designed by Black scientists, and our hair perfume and hydrating gels formulated by Black scientists

How does Ruka represent the Black and British experience?

Since launching in the UK in Jan 2021, we’ve been voted the no.1 afro hair extensions brand, serving over 5,500 customers largely in the UK. The Black and British experience is interwoven into the fabric and history of Ruka. We know what it feels like to have to make do because it doesn’t seem like what’s out there is created for you. And that’s exactly why we have decided to make the outsiders our insiders, by creating a company that truly puts Black women at the centre and innovates around their needs.

Our aim is world domination – put simply, this is representing and innovating around those needs in every arena where Black women exist. Being the first Black hair extension business in Westfield London was an extension of the work we do daily. We’re raising the standard whilst normalising the joyful shopping experience that Black women across the globe deserve.

What’s next for Ruka as they continue to grow and flourish?

From October 31st we’ll have launched in Selfridges – a history-making partnership with Ruka being their first Black-owned hair extension concession. We’ll also be launching our crowdfund to allow us to build a proprietary synthetic hair offering, deepen our ethics and sustainability focus within our supply chain and lay the groundwork for international expansion. These are just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in our vision to serve Black women with the highest standards of hair solutions.

Why Is South Asian Heritage Month So Important?

South Asian Heritage Month first took place in 2020 – and has since been running from 18th July to 17th August every year. SAHM seeks to commemorate, mark and celebrate South Asian Cultures, histories and communities, seeking to sow a common thread between the diverse heritages and cultures that continue to link the United Kingdom and South Asia. Jasvir Singh OBE, a family law barrister is the co-founder of SAHM alongside Dr Binita Kane. Jasvir is also a trustee of several charities, including City Sikhs and the Faiths Forum for London. He is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4’s Thought for the Day, listened to by over 7 million people. In 2017, Jasvir was awarded an OBE for his extensive community work. 

The common history between the United Kingdom and the South Asian subcontinent has reached a pivotal moment – 75 years after the Partition of British India into Pakistan and India, we have our first non-white Prime Minister, Rishi Sunak, of Punjabi heritage. The upcoming annual Remembrance Day on November the 11th – highlighting the contribution of the Commonwealth in the World Wars – further brings into focus the relationship between the United Kingdom and the wider Commonwealth/Former Empire; British India did provide the largest volunteer army in history during the WW2 fight against fascism. 

What was the driving force behind creating South Asian Heritage Month?

So something called the Grand Trunk Project brought me and Binita Kane, my co-founder, together. Binita had been on her own journey in 2017 to Bangladesh to visit her father’s ancestral village which he had to flee in the middle of the night from. Together, we built SAHM. We really wanted to explore our appetite for understanding our own collective South Asian history. 

My first degree (undergraduate) was in History – a subject area I’ve always been passionate about, to explore our collective British South Asian history, which most people don’t have a great deal of knowledge about. I was lucky enough to have a history teacher growing up in West London who encouraged me to do my own research on my British South Asian culture. Our people don’t have the platform to explore our shared British history and identity – so it’s really been about creating that platform. 

Just this year actually, for SAHM 2022, we hit a reach of 405 million across our social channels – in just one month. We feel we have a huge sense of responsibility as the custodians and guardians of South Asian Heritage Month. I really do feel a huge sense of responsibility. 

Was the wave of BLM (Black Lives Matter) a source of inspiration for SAHM?

BLM wasn’t a significant inspiration as we had had our concept launch in 2019, prior to George Floyd’s murder. We were inspired by Black History Month, but our work with SAHM is much more than just history. It’s about the past, present and the future. When we were conducting our research, myself and Dr Binita Kane (SAHM co-founder) came across SAHM in Ontario – which has been held every May since 2002. The question then became why can’t we do that here? And why not nationally? The UK has a significant South Asian population so the opportunity was clearly there. 

Are you hopeful that SAHM will provide the space to reduce frictions and barriers in our collective community? 

Take the example of West London – there’s a significant Somali population following the 1990s Somali civil war and also a big population of South Asians. My school headteacher growing up there was a British Punjabi man, and his presence as headteacher meant that we didn’t feel limited in what we could be. 

In a similar way, SAHM is there to intertwine the nuances of South Asian Heritage into mainstream culture such that we don’t feel ashamed to talk about Diwali or Eid, wear a kurta pajama or shalwar kameez, and so on – so South Asians don’t feel limited in what we can aspire to be. 

Take music for example – the most famous pop and rock singer in history is Freddie Mercury of Queen, whose family was of Parsi/Gujarati origin. South Asians have always been a part of this wider British culture, but we’ve been embarrassed to talk about our authentic selves. This goes back to people from earlier generations from the subcontinent adopting Anglicised nick-names upon their arrival to the UK in order to fit in. 

This ultimately goes back to South Asian people being proud of who they are, and not being embarrassed to be expressive with our identity. We need to do this in a very British manner – not American nor Canadian. We are British and we are South Asian. So SAHM effectively provides that space to talk about what it means to be South Asian in Britain today. 

Do recent events – namely the passing of the Queen, provide a pivotal moment in what it means to be British and the relation with the wider Commonwealth?

To some extent, I do think so – look at the institutions of the Crown for example, as being present-day reminders of our colonial history. The Koh-i-Noor more specifically acts as a metaphor to the complexity of the issue – currently, in the Crown Jewels, its history traces from Lahore to Kabul to the Mughals and then as far to the Southern Indian Empire of Vijayanagar from which the Mughals stole the diamond. So when people talk of returning the Koh-I-Noor, where do we return it to? Similarly, you can see our collective and nuanced British South Asian identity in the same way. 

Where do you see the broader South Asian community going moving forward?

Clearly, there is a huge level of disparity within the British South Asian communities between those at the very bottom compared to those at the top – we currently have a British South Asian Prime Minister yet socioeconomic indicators of many within the British South Asian population remain low. 

How do you deal with something like this? We’re dealing with a rapidly changing environment but social mobility is the real issue here rather than race and ethnicity. 

Importantly here SAHM can provide a platform for honest discussion of these issues, a month to talk and eventually open other doors, for example, wider inclusion in our national school curriculum. From the inception of SAHM, I want it to eventually not exist – I eventually want it to disappear. I say this because I want SAHM to have built-in obsolescence – why limit the conversation to one month? However, I look at the example of Black History Month – that’s been running for 35 years and it’s needed more now than ever. That’s why I reckon SAHM will be around for many years to come. People need to know about Freddie Mercury’s Gujarati-ness, how South Asian food managed to end up on every British high street, and even how the British Bhangra music industry exported the sounds of 1980s Southall and Birmingham back to Punjab. I’m proud to be brown, and I want others who are brown to be proud of who they are too and be able to celebrate all parts of South Asian-ness. 

Emiko: ‘I want my music to inspire people”

As part of our BLACK British edition The Detail which you can read now, we sat down with Singer Emiko to reflect on Black Britishness and his singing career

With a voice so timely yet so timeless West London’s singer-songwriter Emiko is an exciting artist that exudes the kind of energy, soul and quality found in the timeless music from our past.

What does being Black and British mean to you?

For me, I think it means navigating, all the influences that I’ve been fortunate enough to be exposed to growing up. I have my African Nigerian culture mixed with British culture which Is mixed with the Black British experience.

It’s like finding yourself within all these different forms of identification and its nice because you get to have a mixture of all those types of cultures and it actually gives you a more well-rounded outlook on life. I see Black British as being well-rounded.

How does your music reflect the black and British experience of growing up in the UK?

I’d say it reflects the black and British experience purely because I’m a black artist making music but also because the genre of music that I do (R&B) is inherently an American genre so even in the UK, we are still creating our own version of R&B with a British or Black British spin on it.

It’s quite an exciting time but obviously, we grew up listening to a lot of R&B from the states so it’s nice that we actually get to define what we interpret as R&B in the UK whilst also having influences from the American culture. For me, it’s just telling stories and being able to have my story resonate with another Black British folk as well

Who are the trailblazers who inspire you to curate music and more?

I would say a lot of the time it’s my peers, so people that I’m on the come up with. We see each other progress and see give each other advice. I love my peers in the creative scene and I love seeing other people succeed as well; it’s quite inspiring.

How does your music empower and represent the Black and British identity?

I think that it’s so important that we tell our stories and my story is to do with being British, it is to be with doing black, my experiences, my pain, love, anguish, mental health, all these things that make me who I am and i put them all into my music.

I always want there to be some sort of message or substance to the music I create, whether that’s through soulful sounds or spoken word or even rapping. I also know that the fact I’m doing what I’m doing means that I’m inspiring other people and opening doors for black creatives. They may say ‘well if he can do it then I can do it.

I love how my music can empower others and also how it can show that there are different types of black British identity. I’m just one type being, you know, soulful sounds R&B that type of jazz genre but we have a multitude of genres of black artists who are representing themselves in so many different ways so it’s just letting people know that there’s space for you regardless of what your musical interest is.

A sit down with Actor and Artist Khalil Mandovi

As part of our BLACK British edition The Detail which you can read now, we sat down with Khalil Madovi to reflect on Black Britishness and his career so far.

How does your music reflect the black and British identity does the exclusivity reflect the experience?

I am black and British, therefore anything I do anything, anything I say is Black and British, it doesn’t have to fit within the umbrella of what we are told black Britishness is. My music reflects the experiences of my life and my story, the stories that I’ll share through my music, I think powerful music has to come from a place of truth, this reflects my Black British experience. Whether that’s party culture, whether that’s love, whether you know self-awareness reflection on existential issues. These types of questions can arise from the kinds of experiences in journeys that I’ve had as a black brit you know, this reflects my Black British identity.

My music reflects my identity in a few ways. A huge part of Black Britishness is diaspora, it is the multifaceted nature of ‘where we are from’ and ‘where we are really from’, bringing those elements together I definitely draw from both my Jamaican and Zimbabwe heritage in my music as well as my London energy and also, I refer to my time in Manchester where I spent a lot of time growing up there when I was young. My music reflects my identity in a few ways, the experience is kind of an exclusive one and music reflects that experience.

How do music and the performative arts intertwine with the black and British experience?

Music is a huge part of our culture, dance is a huge part of our culture. So naturally, being black has shown me that expression is a huge part of my identity, who I am, how I’ve learned to navigate the world, music as a form of expression, performative art as a form of expression, to see that they intertwine would imply that they were once separate, I think that imagery blends them together, it’s more than just a collage of elements that has different colours within the same picture. I think that the black British experience is an expression, I think the black British experience is music I think it is Art, I think it is dance as it’s deeply ingrained in who we are. So many other stories are told through these forms of media, expression is such a huge part of that is something we celebrate something we train from a very young age.

Why did you start to curate music? who are your musical influences?

Music has always been around for me you know, so it’s always been something I was interested in I was good at, it was a form of expression I knew that was taught to me from like birth, my Mum is a vocalist, my Dad’s been involved in the music industry. It was always an option because I liked it and I was good at it. When I was young there was one day when I was with my Dad, Grandma and Sister in South London on the way to a market, playing on the radio was Never Soft by Ms. Dynamite featuring Labrinth, produced by Labrinth on the way, that way that song made me feel, that’s when I knew I wanted to make other people experience the same feeling through music. Listening to Labrinth’ work was one of the catalysts that inspired me to start. A few years later I then found myself with a cracked version of Logic and I started figuring stuff out, I was doing a music GCSE at the time because I wanted to understand the mechanics of music that’s when I began playing around more at that point I threw myself into a much deeper level.

So many people are popping in London right now man, Little Simz, Cleo Sol, Inflow he’s like one of the greatest producers ever, we don’t give him his flowers he’s a significant influence for me. Many different people are doing so many amazing things right now. As far as my musical influences Labrinth is huge, Kendrick Lamar, Donald Glover, Hiatus Coyote Daft Punk D’Angelo, J Dilla, Ghetts, Chip, Wretch 32, Coldplay, Shaka, Kanye West Tyler, The Creator, Drake are just some of the people who influence me.

Do you think black British musicians are underrepresented in the mainstream, do they fit into the commercial space?

I’d say they’re not underrepresented because in the mainstream music scene in the UK there’s a black presence there, but the totality of what the black presence symbolises isn’t represented in the mainstream. If the world is an ocean and Black British musicians are like a huge iceberg, the mainstream would be the vantage point or the viewpoint or perspective that we have from what we can see of everything above water. If the mainstream is only what you can see above water then you know that a lot is going off in the ocean below the water level but you can’t see it because of what the mainstream perspective is.

I’d say that black British musicians are underrepresented in that respect because we are such a vast entity. We tap into so many different pockets, many people are doing so many beautiful and brilliant things but they wouldn’t get the mainstream shine so a lot of people don’t know about them.

Thankfully, we live in the Internet era, which means you could you can just be in your niche bag and let the world find you. Before in the music industry, the reason record labels had so much power was that they were the ones that presented you to the world but now we live in a life where the world and an audience can find you, being consistent and putting yourself out there pays off, your audience will find you and that is a beautiful thing.


You can read the full version of The Detail Magazine Here

Should we boycott the World Cup?

Former FIFA president Sepp Blatter has acknowledged his regret over allowing Qatar to host the FIFA World Cup in 2022.

“The choice of Qatar was a mistake,” the 86-year-old said in an interview with Swiss newspaper Tages-Anzeiger.

“At the time, we actually agreed in the executive committee that Russia should get the 2018 World Cup and the USA that of 2022. It would have been a gesture of peace if the two long-standing political opponents had hosted the World Cup one after the other.”

“It’s too small a country. Football and the World Cup are too big for that.”

It comes after fresh concerns have reignited an international debate regarding the treatment of LGBTQ+ individuals and workers in the Gulf state, just two weeks before the tournament begins.

In Qatar, same-sex relationships and the promotion of them are criminalised, with punishments ranging from fines to the death penalty.

Qatar World Cup ambassador Khalid Salman recently said that homosexuality is “damage in the mind”.

There are also concerns about the treatment of the country’s workers leading up to the World Cup, with Amnesty International reporting that workers have been subjected to terrible living conditions, delayed salaries and threats and blackmail by their employers.

Are we really surprised?

Once again, football’s darker side has come to light, making for the realisation of uncomfortable facts and truths, and whether or not fans of certain clubs should think twice before taking the moral high ground.

Like most things in life, everything has a price. Qatar has the third-largest natural gas reserves in the world, putting them in a position of leverage over Western countries.

This isn’t the first time that football’s relationship with morals has been called into question.

Similar concerns have been raised over the treatment of certain demographics by Gulf and Middle Eastern states over the past decade.

Many of them own clubs in an obvious attempt to sportswash their image; namely Paris St. Germain, Manchester City and more recently, Newcastle United.

Airlines such as Emirates – that sponsor clubs such as Real Madrid, Arsenal and AC Milan – are often associated with the United Arab Emirates, with many human rights groups regarding them as substandard when it comes to human rights.

Multinational bank Standard Chartered – which sponsors Liverpool – own a coal mine in north Columbia called Cerrejòn, which is causing irreparable damage to the local indigenous Columbian community.

Liverpool forward Luis Diaz is from this community.

Whilst most agree that this World Cup in particular is a testament to corruption being an open secret, many should acknowledge the skeletons in their own closets before passing judgment.

Are Western countries really as morally superior to the Qatari state as they would like to think?

Newcastle fans celebrate their club being bought by the Saudi Public Investment fund from former owner Mike Ashley.

Many would argue that allowing Middle Eastern and Gulf states into football in the first place makes football organisations and communities complicit in their alleged crimes.

Is the average Manchester City fan concerned about human rights violations in the UAE? Probably not, because the club regularly win Premier League titles.

From a moral standpoint, if the average person wishes to boycott this tournament then they should also boycott all other organisations, countries and clubs that are involved.

A person cannot be selective in their outrage. Either they boycott everything, or they boycott nothing.

What happens next?

The tournament kicks off on Sunday 20th November, with the host nation taking on Ecuador.

Despite being formally forbidden by FIFA, England captain Harry Kane plans to wear a ‘One Love’ armband in games, in support of the LGBT community.

Former Manchester United full-back Gary Neville, who now works as a pundit, has been called out for agreeing to work for the Qatari state broadcaster during the tournament.

The winter may be making us more depressed

Winter has started to take hold in the UK. People wake up to go to work in the cold, dark mornings, and then are later returning home in the evenings once again in darkness. The days are getting shorter and the cold, dark nights are getting longer. It’s a miserable fact, and there’s no surprise that this can affect people’s well-being. So with this in mind, it’s time to start raising awareness of Seasonal Affective Disorder- SAD. 

What is Seasonal Affective Disorder? 

According to the NHS, Seasonal Affective Disorder is a type of depression that comes in and goes in a seasonal pattern. It is sometimes also known as ‘winter depression’ due to how symptoms of the disorder appear more apparent in this season, but this is a type of depression which can occur throughout any time of the year. 

No experience with the disorder is the same as each of us will face different challenges in our daily lives, but there are some symptoms which you could look out for if you feel yourself or someone close to you may be experiencing seasonal depression: 

  • A persistent low mood 
  • A loss of pleasure and interest in normal day activities 
  • Feeling lethargic or little energy throughout the day
  • Difficulty concentrating
  • Decreased sex drive 
  • Difficulty sleeping as well as a difficulty to get out of bed

But what causes it? 

There is no definite reason why seasonal affective disorder occurs, but there have been some studies which have suggested the reasons why individuals feel they are more affected in the winter months. The main theory is how lack of sunlight can stop a part of the brain called the ‘hypothalamus’ from working correctly. This could impact the production of melatonin (which is the hormone that makes you sleepy, people with SAD could be producing an increased amount). It could also be affecting your serotonin levels due to a lack of sunlight, as well as the shorter days disrupting your body’s internal clock. 

I spoke to Maisie and Zuri,  who had both experienced SAD to understand more about what it is truly like to feel you are suffering from the seasonal affective disorder. 

Maisie explained “I started to feel I was experiencing seasonal depression at some point during secondary school. The most prominent symptom I experienced was extreme tiredness. During the winter months when I was at school, I’d often come home and go to bed for a “nap” at 4 pm but wouldn’t wake up until my alarm went off at 7 am the following day. I also find myself feeling “down” for a lot of the winter.”

Zuri grew up in a cold quaint town on the East Coast of the United States where she explained the winters were very harsh. 

“In my own experience, the winter season made me feel more affected because I wasn’t able to control the weather. There were many times when I was forced to stay indoors because of extreme weather for weeks when I was a teen. The danger of not being able to leave your house spawns fear regardless, but constant darkness and solitude add to the discomfort.” 

There are treatments which can help if you feel yourself or somebody else is experiencing SAD. On the NHS advice website, they explain that even small lifestyle changes could help those experiencing the condition. I asked Zuri and Maisie if there was anything they would suggest for those who felt they were experiencing SAD. 

“During the winter, I take vitamin D supplements since this is what we’re often lacking in the absence of sunlight. They’re by no means a magic solution but they do make me feel slightly more energised when I’m otherwise exhausted.” 

“Whenever I feel winter depression creeping in, I try my best to try and not to let it affect my mood whether that means watching movies that make me feel better or trying my best to get into a holiday spirit. Something I also try to remember is that a lot of people are probably feeling similar so I would say try and not be too hard on yourself if you feel extra isolated during the colder months.” 

It is not only lifestyle changes which are suggested the GP can also advise on types of therapies such as cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT), as well as medication such as antidepressants. You should consider speaking to your GP if you think you are experiencing SAD and you are struggling to cope. 


If you feel you or someone you know is experiencing Seasonal Affective Disorder and would like to speak to professionals for advice here are some organisations working to support those through the seasons. 

  • MIND: Providing advice and support to empower anyone experiencing a mental health problem. (0300 123 3393). 
  • The Mix: A UK support service for young people. Helping you take on any challenge you’re facing – from mental health to money, from homelessness to finding a job, from break-ups to drugs. (0808 808 4994). 
  • YoungMinds: One of the UK’s leading charities fighting for children and young people’s mental health. (020 7089 5050). 

The Twitter meltdown has exposed the worst of us

Billionaire Elon Musk has officially purchased social media company Twitter, in a move that has caused both celebration and anger amongst its workers and users.

Despite doubts that Musk would purchase the company after putting the deal ‘on hold’ due to Twitter allegedly misrepresenting the number of bots and spam accounts on the platform, the deal was officially completed on October 27, at an estimated cost of US$44 billion.

It was reported that the Tesla and SpaceX owner, within minutes of acquiring Twitter, promptly fired many executives who were escorted out of the building by security.

Musk’s open letter to Twitter advertisers regarding his acquisition of the company

Musk’s vision for Twitter was laid out in a tweet, where he said it was ‘important to the future of civilisation to have a common digital town square… [because] social media will splinter into far right wing and far left wing echo chambers that generate more hate and divide our society.’

The deal has been praised by conservatives and Republicans, who see it as good progress for online free speech. Many will point to previous examples of Twitter seemingly trying to censor right-wing speech.

However, it has also been opposed and criticised by liberals and Democrats, who fear a rise in misinformation and hate speech on the platform.

It’s bigger than free speech now

The reaction and effects of Musk’s takeover of Twitter should be evidence enough to prove that Twitter has a far more important role in society than most realise or are willing to admit.

It has exposed many for who they really are, most of whom fall into two camps.

There are those who wish to have absolutely no limits to speech at all (even at the possibility of real world harm), and those who wish to shape the internet’s political landscape in their image, to the extent where they would leave a platform that provides a space for opposing viewpoints.

For some, it’s welcomed anarchy. For others, it marks the end of their digital and intellectual comfort.

Many would argue that Twitter has evolved from just another social network to a public utility, something that Twitter workers themselves have described the platform as.

It is ironic, therefore, that a public utility finds itself in the midst of such controversy. To some, the fact that the takeover (for the purpose of free speech) is controversial in itself is the reason why Twitter needed a change.

Marvel Comics writer Ethan Sacks voices his opposition to Musk’s pledge.

The only people who should be concerned by this takeover are those who do not truly believe in free speech, but rather a sort of authoritarian online culture.

There are those who are actually upset that there will now be LESS censorship on the platform.

The reaction to Musk’s takeover proves this, as many have left the platform due to somewhat baseless claims about a supposed ‘rise of hate speech’; a concept in itself which has been recently challenged and rejected.

It also proves that many were comfortable on Twitter, pre-Musk, which in turn exposed a cultural and political bias that the company had.

If Twitter considers itself a public entity, it must be free of all bias and become a space where people can simply exchange ideas.

Therefore, to not wish to be part of that is to not want to be part of the public, which is demonstrable proof of how ideologically polarised society has become.

What now?

Musk plans to lay off over a quarter of Twitter’s workforce, and has until 1 November to take legal action to avoid having to pay bonuses to certain executives.

He has also proposed making Twitter’s blue tick verification function a subscription service.

Activists and left-leaning politicians see this as potentially dangerous for democracy and individual rights, whilst right-leaning politicians and commentators believe it to be important for the future of online communication.

To some, the digital playing field has finally been levelled.

It does seem, at least for the immediate future, that this is a watershed moment in the culture war that society seems to find itself in the midst of.